Two Memorable Meals
And the joy of dining with dear ones...
I can taste these meals again by simply glancing at photos. And I took quite a few. But even without these triggers, memories of two recent meals remain remarkably vivid.
Meal one, multiple courses, most just one bite. And oh, what a magnificent bite! Flavor and aroma. Texture and temperature. Precision and presentation.
Backing up a bit. I was in New York City in early June visiting a friend. His plan for dinner: omakase. Great… what’s omakase?
It’s distinctive, and in this instance, unforgettable. The Japanese word translates to “I leave it up to you.” Chef’s choice; a tasting menu. And more: a multi-course experience playing out right before our eyes in a modest Japanese restaurant, drawing on fresh, high-quality ingredients, most courses consisting of only one bite.
No menu, no guesswork and, although I have photos, in most cases I really don’t know what we ate. Fresh seafood and sushi rice, all prepared and served with utmost attention and care. I think our meal totaled seventeen courses. Maybe ten diners in the entire restaurant.
Seated at the counter, we watched as our chef prepared each delicious morsel. Smiles and nods displayed our pleasure; “mmmm” and gestures conveyed our enthusiasm. Considerable bowing by our chef, tending only to us for about two hours.
Every taste savored within seconds of being served, mostly using fingers rather than chopsticks. Thin strips of ginger available to refresh our taste buds. Sharing a bottle of sake and hydrating with tap water, NYC’s finest.
My companion had experienced omakase before, so he knew, generally, what was happening and provided superb guidance. I deferred to his wisdom as we both placed ourselves in a master chef’s hands. From start to finish, an exceptional meal. Upon reflection, more accurate to say the evening was a glorious experience.
Pivoting now to a second memorable meal… at “Indígena by Owamni” now in expanded space at the Guthrie Theater in Minneapolis. Indígena, pronounced In-DEE-Hay-Na, according to their website, “is mark(ing) a new chapter, expanding the culinary scope, physical space, and cultural reach of the James Beard award-winning restaurant founded by Chef Sean Sherman.”
For several years, it’s been “Owamni” a much smaller, nationally acclaimed Indigenous restaurant – a fine dining experience I’d not yet accessed – created in 2021 by “The Sioux Chef” (clever). In September 2023, Owamni was acquired by a nonprofit organization, North American Traditional Indegenous Food Systems (NATIFS), thereby “paving the way for more hands-on training opportunities, guest chefs, Indigenous food R&D, and producer spotlights.”
Let me note here that I care about compelling concepts, often as fundamental to a good restaurant as great food. I care about adequate working conditions and fair compensation for those who work in these establishments. And I always care about a meal that lingers in my mouth while I’m dining… and then in my mind for days if not weeks that follow.
Indígena by Owamni delivered on my high expectations. Our meal was “opening night” at their new location (they cohabitate with the Guthrie so I can say this, right?), June 23, which meant servers sometimes responded to our questions with, “Hmmm. Let me check.” They reported back swiftly with answers.
Highlights of our evening: a corn-based side dish, called marichou (caramelized sweet corn, onion, tomato, and something called “warrior seasoning,” an Indigenous-inspired spice blend); a massive bison ribeye sufficient for four (with pink peppercorn sauce, pickled fresnos – basically, chili peppers – and crispy onions); and wild-caught salmon (Pacific Northwest salmon, huckleberry tomato aioli, and sea beans). I had to look up sea beans, a bright green, marsh-dwelling plant that tastes somewhat like salty green beans
I don’t do food reviews. My friend Wini, part of the Iowa Writers’ Collaborative, does… and extraordinarily well. I write about unusual experiences, which sometimes include notable meals. In both of these instances, the food was incredible.
But what about the lift, the specialness, that elevates it all to “deserving a write-up” status? Ah, it’s the company and conversation. It’s the happiness reflected in the pleasure of others. It’s a beginning-to-end encounter: food, service, ambiance… and invariably, the boundless joy of dining with dear ones.
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My column, entitled “Showing Up,” is published in the Nora Springs - Rockford Register. I’m also pleased to be part of the Iowa Writers’ Collaborative… click on the underscored link to see a list of the talented people who make up this innovative approach to journalism. I’m always appreciate your feedback and, if you aren’t already a subscriber, I’d be thrilled if you became one. Thanks much! —KM